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"Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow" (chriskf) 04/06/2016 at 00:27 • Filed to: None

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Let’s talk used Maz-duhs.

(If you read that last word in Clarkson’s voice, then we’re obviously on the same page)

Anyway, the FR-Slow is going away in favor of a reliable DD and a beater track car. Originally I’d wanted something like a 4Runner for the ability to tow. The reality is, that I won’t actually be towing anything for quite some time as the track car is planned to be kept streetable for at least a couple years.

Eliminating the requirement of an SUV or truck has opened my world of potential new DDs quite a bit. I know everyone loves the newer Mazda3 and Mazda6, and I’m pretty sure I’ve heard a lot of good stuff about the older generations too. However, I’m not greatly informed on them.

Basically, my requirements for a new DD are:
-Reliable
-$5-9k price range
-Decent gas mileage
-Nice interior that’s fairly well equipped (bluetooth would be nice, but isn’t a deal breaker as I can always add an aftermarket head unit with it)
-FWD or AWD is preferred
-Low-ish miles (shooting for ~80-100k mark)

Essentially, just a decent car to drive to/from work, on road trips, and all the other crap that a DD serves duty for. And, as blasphemous as it is, I’d be okay with getting an automatic.

Now, I’m pretty sure that both the 3 and the 6 meet all those requirements. At least based on the car shopping browsing I’ve done. Looks like 2005-2010 would be the MYs I’d be looking at.

Is there anything in particular I should be looking for with either car in those years? Any specific models of either that would be best? Any common issues I should know of?

Also, any other suggestions on potential DD cars would be appreciated. I know Corolla is the sensible answer to the reliable DD, but I’m an enthusiast and want something I’ll enjoy a little more.

Plus, I’ve already done my time in a 2000 Corolla.

For Sweden > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 00:29

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E39 528ix/530xi

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > For Sweden 04/06/2016 at 00:33

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I have some fairly strong pre-conceived notions about high mileage German cars that may stem from biases based on anecdotal evidence/stories.

Convince me that I’m wrong about them.

For Sweden > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 00:34

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It doesn’t have a turbo

TheHondaBro > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 00:36

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We should all spell car manufacturers as Clarkson would pronounce them:

Honder

Mazduh

Foahd

Purrjoe

Citren

Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 00:38

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Early ‘00 models crumble like no tomorrow, otherwise they’re great cars.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > For Sweden 04/06/2016 at 00:39

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Is that really the only qualifier that makes high mileage BMWs unreliable?

Seems difficult to find any 528/530xi’s with anything under 150k in my price range.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > TheHondaBro 04/06/2016 at 00:41

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Jaag!

AddictedToM3s - Drives a GC > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 00:41

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If you read up on German cars, particularly the BMWs most of the failures are due to owners neglecting to change out maintenance items. Most people complain that what the Germans consider maintenance items shouldn’t be maintenance items.

Those people neglect to understand highly strung cars have different demands than a Corolla which will happily take you from A to B with just oil, gas, brakes and tires.

Long story short, keep on top of inspection I and inspection II and you’ll be fine assuming you didn’t pick up a basket-case. The cheapest German performance car you get is the most expensive one you’ll get.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy 04/06/2016 at 00:41

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Hmm.... probably not ideal since I live in the midwest. Rust-aplenty out here.

TheHondaBro > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 00:42

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Jagyouah

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > TheHondaBro 04/06/2016 at 00:49

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Nissen

TheHondaBro > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 00:50

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HAI-YUN-DIE!

Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 00:50

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Seems like its only the early ones up to 2009 that have the problem, the smiley facelift seems to have solved most of those issues. That’s the case for the Mazda 3 at least, as I haven’t seen a newer one rusted to the point the older ones are.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > TheHondaBro 04/06/2016 at 00:55

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I like this game.

MarquetteLa > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 01:06

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Check out what Mazdaspeed6 prices are like in your area.

Khalbali > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 01:07

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The v6's aren’t great, but the 4 cylinders are pretty solid. Look for front cover seepage and inner cv boots on the v6 if you go that route.

Where have all the lightweights gone? > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 01:20

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My advice? Spend a little bit more money and get a 2012 or 2013. The reason being is the introduction of the SkyActiv 2.0L motor, bumping up mileage significantly. I currently have one, and it’s both a comfortable long-distance drive and routinely get between 32-35 MPG in mixed driving.

MLGCarGuy > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 01:24

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You can get an ‘04-07 Honda Accord with a 4 cylinder and a manual. A quick Autotrader check shows that they’re about $8-9k, which is on the pricier end of the spectrum, but most are EX-Ls, and some of them have navigation systems and heated seats.

Where have all the lightweights gone? > TheHondaBro 04/06/2016 at 01:25

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Volksvaagen

greasemonkey235097 > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 02:12

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Stay away from any 2.3, just look up 2.3 mazda engine failure

Jarrett - [BRZ Boi] > Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy 04/06/2016 at 06:09

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Can confirm. Smiley face doesn’t rust easily. I have a 2011 as my DD in Ontario.

Mercedes Streeter > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 07:17

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Remember, you’re out here in this fridgid hell. Maintenance isn’t the only qualifier that will break a car out here. Every winter, my smart comes out on the Spring side a lot more broken than when it went in. lol

That’s definitely something to look out for with used Mazdas too. Every mid 2000s and younger Maz has rust out here...and if one doesn’t, give it a year or two to catch up. :(

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Where have all the lightweights gone? 04/06/2016 at 07:49

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Hmm.. maybe.

nerd_racing > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 08:05

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Mazda 6 with the V6 and a manual. Just make sure you put aftermarket cats in them as the factory ones deteriorate and the engine sucks up the guts. Other than that they are great, fairly fast cars.

nerd_racing > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 08:06

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curious, why no rear wheel drive? I daily drive a rear wheel drive and It’s an absolute joy. By far the best winter car I’ve driven. I’ve had a lot of front and all wheel drive mazda and fazda cars.

PotbellyJoe and 42 others > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 08:56

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As a current owner of a 2009 Vibe GT 5-speed, I would say it is one of the best commuter cars I know. But there’s a hitch. I can’t use “car troubles” as a reason for being late in the morning, haha.

I know you didn’t specify RWD, but a 93 Fleetwood could get you around comfortably and cheaply and also tow like 8000 pounds, haha.

In all honesty , a 4DR Civic Si would probably be a good thing to look for.

Daily Drives a Dragon - One Last Lap > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 09:08

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Well... if you want the gas mileage, the 4Runner is not for you.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > nerd_racing 04/06/2016 at 09:42

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I’ve been DD’ing a RWD car for nearly two years in Chicagoland now, and have loved it. I mainly just went with FWD/AWD because I’d be less likely to go racey thing in it. My track car will be RWD, so I’ll still have my fix. haha

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > PotbellyJoe and 42 others 04/06/2016 at 09:43

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Yeah, an Si wouldn’t be bad. (Assuming I can find one that isn’t riced or stanced haha)

PotbellyJoe and 42 others > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 09:44

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That’s where the 4doors come in. The coupes have all been turned to rolling tarballs of terribleness. Only like 50% of the sedans have.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Daily Drives a Dragon - One Last Lap 04/06/2016 at 09:45

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I had an ‘05 SR5 before the FR-S. I was averaging around 21, which I’m fine with considering I was driving an SUV. The decent gas mileage is somewhat relative. I’m open to trucks/SUVs still, and certainly won’t hold them to the same mpg standards as cars.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > PotbellyJoe and 42 others 04/06/2016 at 09:45

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I actually really like the Si sedans. Like a lot. Would make a fun DD.

PotbellyJoe and 42 others > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 09:50

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Yeah, they’re all manual too, IIRC, so you don’t even have to check that box.

nerd_racing > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 10:20

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fair point. I’m hoping to get my diesel mazda 323 going so I don’t get speeding tickets this summer in my 1 series. I don’t drive it very politely now. Hoping to work on that before it becomes a problem.

Counterpoint, interested in a euro spec diesel 1990 mazda 323? No rot, some paint fade and interior could use some work lol.

nerd_racing > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 10:21

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tee vee arrrrrr

LoveTheWagon > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 10:29

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I DD a 2005 Mazda 6 wagon and it hasn’t had any real issues. The fuel economy isn’t great. I get about 25 on the highway. The car is huge though and can carry more than you would think is possible. Happy shopping.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > nerd_racing 04/06/2016 at 10:34

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I’d be interested in one for a rally car project if I had the extra space/money. haha

Shmevans > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 11:07

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Just get this. Done. It will do everything you’d ever need and last a long time with proper maintenance. Plus they look awesome.

https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/551995…

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Shmevans 04/06/2016 at 11:12

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I like Imprezas/WRXs, but am incredibly wary of used ones because of the “hoon factor.” I don’t trust how any of them have been treated/maintained, especially when they’ve got blacked out taillights. haha

Santiago of Escuderia Boricua > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 11:13

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Speed 6!

Shmevans > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 11:15

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Maybe, but clean title at least. Could be worth a look at least if its nearby. Good luck!

TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 11:17

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I’ll nominate my own daily since it meets most, or all your requirements. Manuals are hard to find though

Volvo S40 T5 AWD

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo 04/06/2016 at 11:21

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I’ve been thinking a lot about the S40/V40/V50, having seen them come up. How are they at higher mileage? Still plenty reliable? Any major issues? If they’re sound, I’d have no trouble buying one for a DD.

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Shmevans 04/06/2016 at 11:23

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Eh, still not confidence inspiring. I won’t count out AWD Subarus, but will certainly take a very biased approach towards cars owned by younger people. I’m a 27 y/o addicted to all sorts of motorsports, so I speak from personal knowledge of the mindset. haha

Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow > Santiago of Escuderia Boricua 04/06/2016 at 11:23

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If I could find one reasonably priced that doesn’t have ridiculous miles I’d be all over it!

TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 12:29

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I bought mine as a one owner no accidents car last November with 90,000 and has provided me with 8k of trouble free miles. I wish I could have found a V50 manual T5 AWD but even living in Mass I couldn’t find one under 1000 miles away for sale

As far as upkeep I plan on doing the timing belt/water pump soon, the factory specification is 120k so I don’t want to let it go that long, I’m a Ford technician so I do all my own work

As far as know problems the Rear Drive Unit hydraulic pump can fail which renders AWD useless, luckily they now offer the pump as a separate replacement part from the RDU

nerd_racing > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/06/2016 at 16:34

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it’s front wheel drive, unfortunately.

mazda616 > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/07/2016 at 08:58

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The Mazda6 is a wonderful car but it's Ford-sourced 3.0 V6 in the first generation tends to be problematic. The 2.3 four is great, though. My friend has one with 360,000 miles on the original engine and transmission.

TheJMan92 > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/07/2016 at 11:42

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I’m going to jump in and advocate for the Mazda 3, as is my duty! Watch the early models for rust, check the passenger side motor mount (expect to replace it), make sure the maintenance has been done like any other car, and you should be good. You can easily find them (manual or auto) for 4k or less with descent milleage, I got mine @ 113k for $3k and it’s been awesome.

I’ve had it for just shy of two years (another 3 months) and its at nearly 160k miles now. I’ve only had one re-occurring issue which is with the driver side half shaft due to being incorrectly informed of the torque spec (axle lock bolt isn’t torque to yield on the auto so go wild and use loctite). Other than that all issues have been self inflicted. My commute is 90% highway and at 65-75 I can get 30-32 MPG if I’m not too wild on the back roads, so I usually see 28 MPG because twisty back roads.

I’ve spent a grand total of $2521.87 on parts. Yea, that’s high but I have an issue with needing to replace everything proactively even if it probably doesn’t need it. Seriously, I feel weird if I’m not working on or planning to work on something. That price includes new tires all the way around, new KYB shock/struts and mounts all the way around+ RacingBeat springs, new brake pads & rotors all around, new sway bar end links all around, new controls arms on the front, inner & outer tie rods, wheel bearing on the drivers side, PMM, serpentine & a/c belt, water pump, thermostat, tensioner pulley, transmission filter with gasket and 12 quarts of Redline D4, twist on oil filter conversion (screw cartridge filters and their plastic housing) with 5 filters and 4 jugs of Castrol Edge 0W40 (2 are in-hand for future use), POR-15 and paint/clear to cover some of the rust, adding an amplifier and subwoofer, OBDII scanner, and even minuscule stuff like a new brake booster cap, fuel cap and hood latch. There’s a lot more but you get the point, I definitely spend more than most normal people do on preventative and in some cases probably unnecessary maintenance. As far as what I actually needed out of that? Probably about $700 worth of parts. I could certainly have gotten away with just driving it and replacing stuff as needed, but I really like this car (coming from 6 years of Buick LeSabres, can you blame me?).

Anyway, long story short, these are great cars that are fun to drive, economical, and can be had on the cheap. Parts are cheap and plentiful, just don’t go overboard replacing stuff like I do and you’ll be good! Let me know if you have any questions on these cars, I’ve got a bit of knowledge :)

for Michigan > Chris_K_F drives an FR-Slow 04/08/2016 at 23:59

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I’ve heard the first generation 6 isn’t too reliable, but the 3 has a better reputation. I bought my 06 3 Hatchback with 125K miles on it in August and it’s about to roll 142K with nothing other than oil changes, cabin air filter, and tires. I’ve done other stuff to it (trans fluid, coolant, brakes), but none of that was necessary. And I’m a delivery driver, so I that’s 17K miles of “spirited” city driving in all sorts of weather.

Speaking of weather, I had Blizzaks on it this winter and they didn’t see much snow because it was a mild winter, even by Ohio standards. But I made a trip up to Sault Ste Marie for a long weekend and saw about 8 inches of snow with no problems whatsoever. Things got even more intense on the way back, but the car was plenty capable through it all.

Being an 06, mine has some rust showing up inside the wheel arches, but that’s it. I’ve seen rust on plenty of other 04-06s, but never on an 07-09 (post facelift). Supposedly, Mazda switched suppliers in 06 and therefore 07+ model year cars shouldn’t have the rust issue.

I’m actually thinking about swapping my car for a lower-mile 07+ 3 GT with a moonroof at some point down the road so I can get all the fancy extras and skip the rust.